Forest and food

Today I put on my hiking havaianas to visit "the smallest national forest in Malaysia".

My companions are Pierre, a foxy French lawyer, and a Nikolaus, a young German student. The terrain is easy to begin with but quickly descends into dense, Conradian jungle.

We hike up hill and down dale for half an hour at a time, spilling out onto white deserted beaches just when we think we've lost the trail completely. Then, back into the dark, sweaty interior. My face looks like I just stuck it in a bucket of water, but after a while the incessant clambering becomes oddly exhilarating, and we start to do it at a run.

Impenetrable forest paths call for desperate measures

At our most desolate and thirsty, we stumble across a swarthy, dangerous looking man in a tin shack who sells me the best tasting water I've ever had. He has some rusty looking hammocks that we collapse into. We stay there a full exhausted hour. Over time, a dribble of tourists emerge from the forest into the sweatshine. Soon there is quite a collection of drained Eurotrash backpackers all along the beach. A group of vindictive Australians find a large beached jellyfish and begin taunting it. "Find a stiiick! Find a stiiiiiiiiiick!" shrieks the harridan ringleader. There is talk of commandeering a boat. I will pay anything to get away from these people.

Giftshop beverage of choice. It's like drinking a meadow, if you're interested. A really sugary meadow.

At last! A speed boat to freedom/the mainland/civilization is produced. As we ride away, the Head Australian is jabbing the jellyfish with a huge piece of driftwood. The group is swapping dubious looks. Even her friends are backing away from her now. I hope they eat her first.

Dangerous Forest Man's dwelling place.


Happier times

Back in Georgetown, we hit the Red Garden for dinner, a huge collection of hawker food stalls and pan piped music. Between the three of us, we consume about 4 dishes a piece, though I steer clear of the fried frogs. I do make room for the deep fried ice cream, however, which is so good I want to get a room with it.

Penang is one of the most famous places in Malaysia for food, and I think I made good. Their specialty is laksa, sour fish soup with noodles and a million other interchangeable ingredients. This one has pineapple, mint and chicken. Also on the menu is spicy satay, fried oyster omlette and hokkein mee, fried prawn noodles in a dark rich sauce. We eat/drink fresh coconuts for dessert.

I have fallen in love with the way Pierre pronounces the word "flip flop", but that is all. I feel drunk on food and it's wonderful. A quick stop at The Chocolate Emporium, where we sample 19 types of flavoured chocolate (avoid the durian), two very small beers and then, achingly, home.